Wiseman Clothing

The importance of fashion transparency

In the past, clothes were handmade, worn daily and repaired when needed. Having a seamstress was only for the wealthy elite, and the majority of the population wore the same garment for years. This changed in the Industrial Revolution when the process of making textiles was mechanized, making fabrics more accessible and affordable.

But if until the first half of the 20th-century textile factories and the end consumers found themselves in the same country, the reality would be much different after the two World Wars. As the world became more globalized, so did the fashion supply chains, and in a short period, we found ourselves buying clothes and accessories manufactured mainly in Asian countries.

Outsourcing made fashion supply chains much more complex. In a constant search for low cost and high-profit margins, materials began to be sourced in one location, then assembled in another and finally transported to the main fashion markets like Europe and North America. This network of processes from the raw material to the end consumer made fashion supply chains opaque. Over time, it became clear that fashion, and especially fast fashion, came with a high cost both to the workers involved and to the environment.

In an era where consumers have been empowered by social media and the internet, having easy access to information about processes, supply chain and policies, is gaining more and more relevance among young consumers who demand to know how their clothes were made. Initiatives such as the Fashion Revolution Transparency Index, want to encourage brands and factories to adopt better practices by having a full picture of their supply chains and identifying aspects that could be improved. 

It is believed that around 60% of brands do not know where the clothes they sell comes from, which gives us an idea about how much information is concealed from consumers, but transparency could help change this scenario. By working alongside suppliers to get information, visiting factories to check if they match the brand’s standards and values and identifying where and how to improve, can not only be an advantage to brands and the way they present themselves to their clients but also lead a movement towards a more responsible fashion industry. When one brand sets a high standard, others have to follow if they do not wish to fall behind, and that can be powerful and impactful. 

Although transparency does not ensure that clothes and accessories will be made ethically and sustainably, it does allow customers to choose in which brands to invest their money on and to check if the information promoted by a brand is actually truthful and reliable. Lack of transparency has put many brands in jeopardy in recent years, which has been influencing decisions within fashion companies to invest in circularity, guarantee labour rights for fashion workers and also reshore activities as a way of having better control over the manufacturing stages. With consumers much more aware of social and environmental issues, transparency will certainly play an important role in the future of the fashion industry.

How the fashion market may change after Covid-19

The world has been living at a fast pace since the 20th when many technologies were developed, causing changes in the way we live, our values, our priorities and even our expectations for the future. Inventions such as airplanes, cameras, home appliances and computers were often a result of technologies developed during periods of struggle, such as the two World Wars for example. Ever since the Cold War, the world lived in a period of relative peace where the middle class grew, there was more disposable income and people were driven to buy fashion items as a form of self-improvement. It seemed as if our lives were always on full speed, but that was about to change in 2020 with the world forced to quickly adapt to a new scenario and new ways of living.

The consequences of a public health crisis had a hard impact on the fashion industry and its stakeholders and, consequently, fashion brands were prompted to rethink their processes and approaches. With consumer behaviour and lifestyle changing rapidly, fashion’s only choice was to be flexible and resilient. During 2020, many new terms and trends came to life and despite the worst part of this pandemic hopefully being over soon, its impact will certainly not be temporary.

With that being said, our goal is to understand what some of the most talked-about trends and topics are.

Nearshoring/Reshoring: although they do not mean the same thing, both terms are correlated. Nearshoring means manufacturing in nearby countries and has been especially popular in recent years with brands who target customers aware of the social and environmental issues linked to the fashion industry. Reshoring refers to activities that were outshored due to lower costs abroad for example, and are now being brought back to their original country. Due to the impacts of covid-19, 64% of American manufacturers said that they will likely reshore or nearshore their activities from Asia to North America. That is mainly because of three aspects: more responsive and agile supply chains, better control over quality and transparency. By manufacturing closer to the final consumer, brands can adjust the production quantities or cease the production more easily and then resume activities faster when the scenario improves. Flexibility and agility are two things that brands will be looking for after 2020 as a way to minimize risks. 

Timeless pieces: one of the things observed by trend forecasters in 2020 was that although people were shopping less frequently and buying fewer things, the average spending on fashion online stores increased. Another trend observed was that there was a preference for items that are perceived as timeless and classic. It can be assumed that with the world going through an economical crisis, people will likely prefer to buy investment pieces. Although they might cost more, they will last longer and won’t be out of fashion after only two seasons.

Sustainability: A survey conducted in 2020 concluded that ⅔ of consumers believe that it is more urgent than ever before to battle against climate change, and sustainability was mentioned as the most important action for fashion brands in the years to come for Gen Z and Baby Boomers. Across the different continents involved in the survey, over 50% of consumers confirmed that they would pay more for an eco-friendly product, with Middle-eastern and South American consumers being the most inclined to spend more on sustainable brands.

With the world going through a period of change and uncertainty, it is essential for brands to keep an eye on trends among consumers and other brands as a way of understanding the present and trying to predict the future. Mapping these trends can help brands and entrepreneurs to know where to invest, how to plan their strategy and which pathway to choose. 

Have you ever saw something that your favourite creative, rapper, basketball player, editor or designer was wearing? You looked for hours and by your surprise it was either designer or one of a kind vintage. Well… a popular and exclusive shopping platform called Basic Space is a quick fix to your fashion hunting problem. Basic space is an marketplace where the internet’s most known creatives sell their own vintage pieces, preowned pieces and new exclusive pieces. Although fashion is the most searched for category, you can also find some cute home goods and furniture. There is even a vintage Rolls Royce listed! Its a mix of  influencers meets online shopping. It’s available by on the App Store or website.

Basic space is more like an community. The difference between basic space to eBay or Depop for example, is the fact that you know who you are buying from and you know their style and their taste. You may even be a fan and therefore you’re much more likely to feel confident that you’ll find something you’ll absolutely love! 

The process of how basic space works is very simple. The clothing, accessories or furniture are collected by the Basic Space team from the sellers, (a small team of five). It’s all taken to their HQ in LA for the process of photography and listing. Then the items or item is shipped worldwide as soon as the item is sold. 

I know I mentioned exclusive. So who’s invited? To sell on the platform you have to be a well know creative. You also have to receive an invite from the basic space team. You can buy from Emily Oberg, Goldlink, Naomi Osaka, Playboi Carti, Sami Miro and even the owner of Nasty Gal, Sophia Amoruso. Virgil Abloh released a furniture line in collaboration with the brand Vitra. It sold out in three days. They also had a pop up shop in Miami Florida, where they were selling vintage pieces. I should also mention that just because their owned by high fashion or creatives names doesn’t make the price increase at all. 

If you love Sophia Amoruso, she sells everything gained from her girl boss days. From Chanel bags and skirts to Alexander Wang and Dolce and Gabbana. If you find inspiration from Sami Miro, you can find I AM GIA pieces and Balmain. 

Founder and CEO, Jesse Lee explains that the goal of the app is to create a trusted ecosystem, where the best in quality and experience can be expertly curated and delivered, globally. The target market is millennials. He also explains that he wants more male creative to get involved so that’s there’s something for everyone. Women are said to be more accustomed to buying things online but he wants that to change.

You wanna try it out? Have you already left this piece to download it? Help the rotation of vintage and preowned fashion. You’re helping the planet and you’re gaining a beautiful, good quality, unique piece. 

The basic space words: This space is not for everyone. This space is not mass produced. Conventional. Or influenced. This space is personal. Experimental. True. A place for unique products and experiences from the individuals shaping tomorrow. 

The concept of climate positivity goes a step further than reducing emissions to actually creating a beneficial contribution to the environment by removing carbon dioxide from the atmosphere. The fashion industry contributes up to 10% of all global carbon emissions therefore designers are under increasing pressure to help the environment. Using alternative fabrics to create carbon-negative clothing is a great way to make your clothing line more sustainable. 

There are many companies that are developing new and innovative ways to become climate positive. Newlight technologies are a Californian-based biotechnology company who have developed a carbon-negative material named AirCarbon, made from ocean microorganisms. Through the recreation of ocean conditions on land using air, saltwater, carbon and renewable power, the microorganisms are able to use air and carbon from greenhouse gas to grow an ocean-degradable and carbon negative material inside their cells known as AirCarbon. This material can be used in place of petro-based polymers in the creation of plastic and leather alternatives. Covalent is a fashion brand that uses AirCarbon to create carbon-negative products such as wallets, eyewear and handbags. 

Another emerging process in the fashion industry is the process whereby designers use Algae in clothes that can take carbon out of the atmosphere, through the process of photosynthesis. Charlotte McCurdy, a New York designer uses algae to create a bio plastic Mac. This piece of clothing is carbon-negative as the fabric can remove carbon from the atmosphere. AlgaLife is a brand that is currently developing eco-friendly dyes and fibres from microalgae. Algalife has plans to use its fibres in second-skin clothing including underwear and activewear.

Designers are becoming actively involved in regenerative sustainability through the production of clothes that reduce your carbon footprint whilst you are wearing them. Post Carbon Lab are a London-based biotech start-up that are creating climate-positive products by designing clothes that synthesise. This brand has developed a coating that contains a layer of living algae on the material that absorbs carbon dioxide and emits oxygen. This has the potential to be used to make a range of accessories including shoes, bags, curtains, pillowcases and umbrellas. However, there are some conditions that must be met to keep the textile healthy. Firstly, the algae need a moderate amount of light. The clothing should also be kept in a well-ventilated area. The fabric should not be kept in an enclosed dark environment. For this reason it is not suitable to store the clothing in a wardrobe. The garment also requires moisture. This may mean hanging the piece of clothing in the bathroom after a shower. It is important to follow the care instructions, as the fabric must be hand-washed as washing machines can harm the algae. 

Although there is a long way to go towards bettering fashion sustainability, the developing technologies within the fashion industry that are permitting the creation of carbon-negative materials is an imperative step in the right direction. Climate positivity requires us to understand that we already have the solutions to pollution in our environment. It is not enough to limit pollution; we need to harness new ways to actively take carbon from the atmosphere. 

Country style is the epitome of traditional British fashion. The country aesthetic celebrates British excellence through tailored and sophisticated pieces. Heritage collections are continually gaining popularity as they are making appearances on the TV screen through period dramas such as The Crown, in which we see the royal family display the best of British country dressing. Country pieces include tweed garments, waxed jackets and Wellington boots. This style is associated with the countryside lifestyle. Think brisk walks, woodlands and fresh air. With the inclusion of a neutral and muted colour palette such as greens and browns, the tones of country clothing reflect those of the countryside.

Country style clothing also incorporates utilitarian designs that are based on practicality. Clothing that is designed to be worn in the countryside must be appropriate for the weather and therefore waterproof, warm and durable. Is it truly British if we don’t mention the weather? Country fashion should be able to withstand the British climate. These outdoor pieces were originally intended to be worn for traditional activities such as hunting, hiking and fishing. Although function is an important feature of heritage clothing, comfort should not be compromised. 

While country clothing is having a comeback today, it’s origins dare back to the 19th century. The most elite members of society wore waxed jackets, baker boy hats and wellington boots to hunt in. Tweed was a firm favourite for Prince Albert and the Victorian royal family. So much so that Albert made it a requirement for anyone working on the Balmoral Estate to wear the tweed that he had designed. Today, when celebrities and influencers are seen wearing a particular style it soon becomes a popular trend as many seek to replicate their style. Seeing royals in country style clothing made it desirable in the mainstream.

Examples of British country brands include Barbour, who produce their signature quilted jackets, and Hunter, whose wellingtons are a popular choice of footwear for festival-goers. Another brand that pays homage to British clothing is Holland Cooper. This brand rejects the fast-fashion ethos and instead creates clothing with longevity. Although traditional country dressing is usually associated with British heritage there is a visible influence of country style in brands across the globe. Many popular names in fashion favour the Equestrian style. Riding boots and suede jackets are a firm favourite for brands like Chanel and Hermès, whilst Ralph Lauren’s nod to equestrian fashion has always remained strong. Meanwhile, Gucci’s signature red and green stripe and gold metal logo is inspired by horse bridles. 

Quintessentially classic British clothing is a perfect niche to consider when developing your clothing brand. There is also a huge appeal in British tradition. Manufacturing traditional British garments here in the UK is a great way to celebrate British craftsmanship and style. 

Country clothing pays homage to traditional styles and stands the test of time in your wardrobe. If you want to create a nostalgic brand that produces beautifully crafted pieces, then a country-focused brand may just be the one for you.

Environmental issues are becoming a defining issue of our time. Consumers are becoming increasingly concerned with adjusting their shopping habits to align with their sustainable values. This means that as the pressure rises, brands are focusing on ways in which they can smooth the transition from fast fashion to sustainable fashion. 

Technological advancements in the fashion industry are evolving rapidly. Here are some examples of how technological advancements are allowing brands to begin ditching fast fashion and prioritising sustainability. 

WASTE

According to the Fashion Revolution, it is reported that the number of garments that are being produced annually has doubled since 2000. An estimated 92 million tons of textile waste is believed to be created yearly from the fashion industry. Most of this waste ends up in landfill but in fact around 24% of waste produced in the fashion industry is fit for re-use. So what is being done about this waste that is fit for new clothing?

The industry is aiming to create a circular economy for textiles. Meaning that the apparel sector is aiming to stop the sourcing of virgin materials every time a new product is made. The FiberSort is a technology that is used to sort large volumes of mixed post-consumer textiles by fibre types. This means that the artificial intelligence-powered piece of equipment makes it easier for those materials that are fit to be turned into new pieces of clothing to be separated from textile waste. Once these materials are sorted, they can be broken-down mechanically or chemically and transformed into nearly-new materials that are then used to produce new garments. 

However, for FiberSort to make a lasting impact, brands will need to create a market for recycled clothing. This can be costly, but as consumers are putting more pressure on the increasing demand for this due to environmental reasons, FiberSort believes it has the potential to break the cycle of textile waste in fast-fashion. 

BIODEGRADABILITY 

To make Stretch denim, cotton is woven around petrol-based elastomers. These threads allow stretch, but the material that is produced is not biodegradable. This means that stretch denim is not capable of being decomposed naturally. It is reported by the owner of an Italian manufacturer Candiani Denim, that approximately 300 million pairs of jeans clog up landfill sites annually. 

However, the Italian manufacturer has partnered with Denham (Dutch jeanmakers)to launch the world’s first pair of biodegradable, stretch denim jeans – created using plant-based yearns. The key piece of technology behind the creation is “Coreva”. Candiani Denim states that Coreva “replaces the common synthetic elastomer with a smart natural rubber elastomer that comes from natural and renewable sources.” This Coreva piece of technology guarantees 40% greater elasticity than normal stretch denim. 

However, it could not be for everybody due to the price to make it. It costs approximately 25% more than normal stretch denim, which hints that it could only be suitable for luxury market consumers. Candiani Denim has many partnerships in the pipeline, one being Stella McCartney for A/W 20.

WHAT DOES THIS MEAN FOR THE FUTURE OF SUSTAINABILITY?

It is evident that fast-fashion is having a detrimental impact on our environment. It is important to understand that the future of sustainability is not focused just on the packaging or the materials of a garment – but it is the brands placing emphasis on working in a way that is making the environment a better place for us to live in. It is not a shock that the transition from fast fashion to sustainable fashion is difficult, but with the technological advancements in today’s industry it could be a little easier. 

The fashion industry is one that has been hit hard by the COVID-19 pandemic. Needless to say, billions of dollars of manufacturing orders have had to be cancelled all over the world. The apparel industry is estimated to employ approximately 60 millions works and it is important to understand the risk that these workers face… 

IMPACT ON SUPPLY CHAIN?

We are aware that most industry leaders and large fashion business’s manufacture their products abroad due to cheap production costs in order to meet demand, so that they can remain competitive. COVID-19 has had an impact on global supply chains in regions including China, Europe and the US. 

Brands and retailers have had to cancel orders from their suppliers due to the government imposing restrictions on travel and gatherings. Businesses are no longer being able manufacture their clothes abroad as easily as they once could. Therefore, this has resulted in many factories having to put production on hold. This means that while many brands and retailers are having to close shops as a result, workers at the other end of the supply chain face significant risks.

WHAT ARE THE RISKS? 

The COVID-19 pandemic is resulting in many cancellation of orders, which means that factories are having to suspend production. A knock-on effect of this is that workers are potentially at risk of being fired or suspended. Those who are at risk of losing their job could mean that they could face being left unemployed with no pay to support themselves or their families. The countries that brands typically chose to manufacture their clothes in are LEDC’s which means that it is likely that their economy was already weak before the pandemic hit. 

However, those who are still working may be operating in environments that have no social distancing rules. Therefore, this means that there are no appropriate health and safety measures in place. Workers are at risk of catching the virus. As mentioned, the economies of LEDC’s are already weak which means that these workers may not have health insurance and the quality of medical care may be poor. The government is working to implement schemes and put in place strategies to help support these workers, but it is not consistent which means that these workers are at risk every-day. 

WHAT CAN BE DONE?

Action can be taken by brands and suppliers  in order to support these works and mitigate the risks that they face. Some of what can be done is outlined below:

• Maintain orders with suppliers: H&M, Target and M&S are amongst some of the brands that have agreed to maintain existing orders with their suppliers. This means that they have not cancelled any existing orders, but instead they have paid for good that have been produced and/or that are currently being produced by their factories.

• Work with suppliers to ensure that factories are meeting COVID-19 guidelines in order to prevent the infection being spread.

• Ensure that the appropriate action is put in place to support workers who are unwell, by providing sick pay to help support them whilst they are unable to work.

This is great video that depicts a working day in a british factory!